| ENGLAND - RUSSIA - MONGOLIA - CHINA - NEPAL/TIBET - INDIA - SINGAPORE - AUSTRALIA - NEW ZEALAND - FIJI - FRENCH POLYNESIA - EASTER ISLAND - CHILE - ARGENTINA - URUGUAY - BRAZIL - PERU - ECUADOR - U.S.A - SPAIN - ENGLAND |
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| Tuesday 21st October 2003 | Hostal Mi Amigo, De Pevas, Amazonia |
| At
5:15 am our tin can speed boat pulled up at Santa Rosa and the Peruvian
border control. It was basically some mud Some of the passengers then told us that we would be changing to another boat upstream. That relieved my fears of being ripped of slightly. We then sat back in our tin can for another 5 hours and I started to think that maybe we wouldn't be changing boats after all. Then all of a sudden the engine packed up and we drifted to shore. Luckily we where near a tiny indian settlement so we jumped ashore their will the captain tried in vain to fix the motor. In the end we where ordered back in the boat and the local indians towed us up stream in there little canoe for 30 minutes until we got to a sizable town of Caballococha. We waited an hour on shore while some mechanics took the engine apart. Fortunately they got it going again and we where back on our way. Sat in the tin can for 6 more hours and even passed through a heavy rain
storm. It was amazing how much swell the storm produced it seemed like
we had ended up in a sea. There was also lots of jungle flotsam which
the captain had to twist and swerve around. I was thankful to the plastic
bags in my backpack which was now tied to the roof of the |
About 10mins later we were on the other side of the river and all having to un board to show the control people our passports. David and us 2 got sent to a different hut whilst the other lot stayed in another. Whilst we were waiting David told us how he had lost his whole backpack when 5men held up the coach with guns and took everyone's belonging, scary stuff. The door opened a few mins later and a guy in his boxer shorts obviously just got out of bed let us into the hut to sit down and wait. By this time the rest of our boat had joined us and we all soon got our PP stamped and were heading back to the boat. Hans was waiting back on the docks as that is where he got off and told us the little boat was only to transport us to the big proper boat for our 12hr journey - what a relief, as the thought of sitting in that boat for that long without being able to get up and walk around would drive me mad....... 5hrs later! and we are still in the little boat and the engine packs up so a local canoe with a small motor grab the side of our boat and takes us to the nearest village where we had to wait for over an hour for the engine to be repaired. The town was quite nice so we wandered around for a bit for me to find a loo and to try to buy some water without any Soles as we still had Reals. We hopped back on the boat and it was then i suspected we weren't really getting another boat - mmmmmmm At 7am they gave us some b'fast on the move consisting of a cheese roll then sat on the boat, which do have to say was very fast, for another 6hrs. I could see the sky was black up ahead and we were driving straight for it! Absolutely amazing, there was thunder and lighting and the river just changed from a flat calm water to a thunderous turmoil and it was like being out at sea in a bad storm. The waves were just coming over the top and the driver couldn't see a thing ( obviously didn't have wipers) He had to drift over the back and try to see some of the storm out as the little boat just wasn't big enough for the waves. I kept thinking of our bags stored on top of the boat and hoped he had covered them well enough.
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| Wednesday 22nd October 2003 | Hotel Caribe, Lima |
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Slept pretty damn well. The night was pretty cool. We where up by 6 though and it was already getting warm. It had rained all night and I started to wonder about the integrity of my backpack waterproofing (our backpacks where still tied to the roof of the boat) The accommodation was paid for by the boat company and they even covered some breakfast, fried fish and fried bananas. It was pretty tasty and even Sarena ate the fish. Spent the morning talking to David. Apparently a new engine was being boated in from Iquitos early in the morning. But that didn't arrive until 11. By which time we where both dying for some water to re hydrate us. No-one in the town would expect our brazilian or american money. But in local a fellow passenger was returning to brazil and managed to change some much needed money for us. By 12 the boat was apparently ready to go. although they We disembarked finally at 4pm and I was surprised to find my backpack pretty dry, unlike some other unlucky passengers. Predictably we where met at the port by an army of taxi (motortrike taxis) drivers. They assured us that there was a flight to Lima at 7 pm so David joined us and we went straight to the airport. We have all had enough of the Amazon now so are just keen to leave the area. I'm sure Iquitos has some interesting things to see but at the end of the day its just another city. Yep the taxi drivers hadn't lied and we where then met by loads of very helpful peruvians at the airport. Normally you can't but tickets at the airport but apparently it is very quite at the moment so we shouldn't have a problem.
By 8 we where in the air. Just for an hour and a half. By 10 we had said goodbye to David, booked a flight ticket to Cusco for the morning and even got a smart(ish) and much needed hotel for the night. I was pretty exhausted by the time we got to the Hotel and just wanted to sleep, but we had a quick meal at the hotel restaurant and a nice hot shower before hitting the sack. |
Up at 6am and went down to the docking place just to see if our boat was still there and if the other engine being delivered from Cusco had been dropped off. The boat was still there with our bags but no engine. We went back to the other hostel where David and the other were staying and were told by the driver that we should be on the move at 9am. He said we could have some b'fast (on the company) and were served up with fried bananas and a black fish, eyes an all. I ate it!!! yep i ate the fish which looked like a fish with bones and fins and eyes and everything, can't believe how much i've changed
To the glory of the heavens above, David and i found the duty free place sold Snickers which were very expensive but we just had to get them - haven't had decent chocolate for a while. We all sat in silence whilst we devoured them then waited for the flight. The flight was only for an hour and a half, good job as it was one of the most uncomfortable planes i had been on, ended up with your knees around by your ears. We said goodbye to David whilst retrieving our bags then found a travel shop which booked us up a plane ticket for the next morning at 9am. They were incredibly helpful and booked us up a hotel which was close and arranged a taxi to take us there and pick us up in the morning. They all wore black suits and i'm sure if it had been in the day time they would of all been wearing shades. 10mins later they took us to a very posh black car and then locked us in as apparently people open the doors when you are stopped at traffic and steal everything. They took us to our hotel where we just dumped our stuff and went down stairs for some food, as we hadn't eaten properly in ages. Toby said he wasn't hungry but did order a burger and chips which didn't see the light of day! Hot shower then bed.
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| Thursday 23rd October 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
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Up at 6. Another day on the road. At 7 we headed to the airport and checked in for a 9 flight to Cusco. Managed to find some English guide books for Peru and Ecuador at the airport which was pretty handy. The plane was only about 30 minutes late and by 10:30 we where finally in Cusco. Again we used the services of tourist guides at the airport to help us find a cheap hostel and book up the pre-requisite Inca Trail hike to Machhu-Picchu. I think we got a pretty good price compared to stories we have heard lately. The Inca Trail is very expensive but unfortunately now illegal to do on your own and a must do for anyone visiting Peru. With that sorted we grabbed a couple of Empanadas for lunch and then went on a tour of our city and our first visit to some Inca sites.
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Up at 6 for a quick b'fast of crackers and jam then were picked up at 7am and taken to the airport. I managed to buy a reading book as i was going out of mind without one and Toby got a book on Peru. Flight was delayed so didn't leave until 10.30 so had time to sit in the departure lounge and note the amount of Japanese were also flying to Cusco, but they all go to Machu Picchu the same time as us...... bugger The plane was the same as the last apart from having a Japanese old man pushing and shoving me to get into his seat - grrrrrrrrr Arrived in Cusco about an hour later and found a tourist info place which got us a taxi to a hostel we had our eye on and was in the lonely planet as being $10 each but when we got there it was much more expensive but absolutely beautiful inside, with an open court with fountain. Wilbur, the guy from the tourist info place had also come with us, so suggested we go to another hotel which was cheaper. The drive around was great and it was like being back in Nepal but cleaner and more open - absolutely wonderful! We sat down with Wilbur and he gave us the low down on the Inca trail, i asked a lot of questions, like how much did the porters get paid and what percent goes to the company etc. It seemed the cheapest rate we had heard of and seeing as your not allowed to do the walk on your own now, we didn't have much choice so booked up to start on the 25h in 2 days time. We also booked up to do the City tour in the afternoon so grabbed a couple of empanadas and waited for the coach. I was finding the altitude quite hard on my old chest and forgot how hard it was to breathe. We spent the afternoon being taken to all the famous sights of the City including the Spanish Cathedral which was built on top of an Inca temple - blinkin Spanish. Saw some Inca original walls which looked like they had only just been built, they were so perfect and straight. Herbert, our guide explained what the lumps were on a couple of the stones, saying that some people think they stand for fertility and could be breast, then looked up and said ' you know these things, breasts? like tits - very very funny and kept us chuckling for ages.
Next it was a quick stop for some coco tea and a chance to buy some locally made scarf's and ponchos etc then onto a natural limestone site where there was an underground cave and tunnel where were found some mummies and still had the sacrificial alter - cool. Had a look at an amphitheatre where they would bring out the mummies and seat them into the stone seats to praise the huge stone idol which was still standing today.
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| Friday 24th October 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
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Had a good long nights sleep. But the altitude change is still effecting us a bit. I Think Sarena has developed a bit of a chill, so lets hope she will be okay for the hike tomorrow. I hired out an extra big Sleeping bag that we can use as a rug for our camping trek into the mountains and we then lazed about for the rest of the day trying to get over our altitude problems.
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Had a terrible night as my back, stomach and kidneys were aching like hell and i felt pretty disorientated. This has to be the first time i had felt ill since arriving in China, 2 years ago. I got up at 6 and went for a walk around the town but ended up feeling
exhausted because of the altitude so spent the rest of the day in bed
in |
| Saturday 25th October 2003 | Inca Trail Day 1, Cusco |
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Thankfully Sarena was feeling a lot better in the morning, so we headed out to be picked up for the Inca Trail at 7:30. There was 14 of us on the trail... 3 Swedes, 2 Spaniards, 2 Uruguayans, 2 Kiwis, 2 Danes and 3 of us Brits... A really good mixed group. It took about an hour and a half to get to the starting point of the Inca Trail and and a 4 day / 48 km walk to the abandoned Inca city of Machu Picchu.
We all sat around the table eating snacks and getting to know everyone but as I talked I could feel some strange sensations in my belly. Dinner arrived by 7, again another 3 courses but my stomach pains had developed and I only managed the trout. By 8 everyone was heading to bed. Good old Sarena managed to step in the smelliest Cow pat just as our guide was telling us to make sure we put our boots right inside the tent. Great. We had a nice big 4 person tent for the two of us, Even so I managed to fill it all up with stuff thrown out of my backpack. I couldn't face going to the loo so decided just to try and get to sleep. An hour later I woke with a terrible pain in my stomach and tried to sleep through it and find a comfortable position but it just got worse and worse. Eventually my stomach gave up and I had to dart outside to throw up. Then the other end gave way! After my bout of food rejection I thought that my stomach would calm down. But it didn't. In fact It got worse still and I ended up vomiting and crapping all night. Haven't a clue where it all came from. But even drinking water caused my stomach to reject it. Poor old Sarena didn't get any sleep either as I scrambled in and out of the tent. In the odd moment of silence I could also hear that the Spanish couple next to us where having a few problems. Bugger maybe the food isn't so good. |
Felt a hundred percent better, thank goodness! so we were both geared up for doing the trail and really looking forward to doing it. We got picked up at 7.30am and found ourselves in a coach with a mixed bunch of people who we would be doing the trail with. Swedes, Kiwis, Spanish, Uruguayans, Danes and another Brit. The bus journey took about an hour and a half taking us to Ollaytamtambo,
a lovely little place surrounded by an old Inca Fortress on the surrounding
mountains. We all got off for a quick wee stop and to buy some coca leaves
Another hour or so up hill and we came to our campsite for the night.
Tents were already errected by the porters who had run ahead in flip flops
carrying gas bottles and huge packs making us look like a bunch of wooses,
just like the Everest Trek. Toby and i ended up with a really big tent
which was like staying in a 5star tent after our little one.... The campsite
was just a little patch hanging on the side of a hill and the toilets
was a small building with a hole and no door, but did have the luxury
of a couple of horses and dogs At 5ish we were all called to sit in a little shelter for coca tea and snack whish was loads of popcorn and biscuits - my favourite. We were then given dinner which was fish (i ate it) and rice, a really nice dinner given the surroundings and lack of cooking facilities. Toby didn't seem hungry - oh oh that sounds ominous.... We all exchanged stories and got to know one another etc but as soon as it got dark i wanted the loo again. Ended up walking in some shite which everyone could smell so had to try and clean it off in some water and a patch of grass, didn't work though. We all went to bed pretty early and cosied up in our bags and tents for the night. I knew i wouldn't sleep when i felt how hard the floor was, my poor old bones just end up all bruised. But it wasn't the floor in the end that kept me up all night - it was Toby. After about an hour of bedding down he awoke with terrible stomach pains and had to run outside with diorreah (which isn't nice outside in the dark) he then had to be sick and on and on it went all night. He was in so much pain and was getting weaker by the hour. In the end he couldn't even get outside to be sick so just stuck his head outside the door whilst laying down. I went and awoke the porters to make some herbal tea to help with the sickness which seemed to help a little but he still kept being ill. At 5am i just sat outside with the dogs and chickens waiting for the family to get up so i could buy a coke off them to try and get some sugar back into Toby - he was craving a cold coke by now. |
| Sunday 26th October 2003 | Hostal Tumi, Aguas Calientes |
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I can't recall feeling so ill before. Couldn't even keep any water down without having to dive out of the tent door to throw up. By about 5 though my stomach started to calm done. Helped by Sarena's nursing. I even managed half an hours worth of Sleep. Sarena fetched me some special Tea that our Guide made for us (that stayed down for a good 20 minutes). But all I really wanted was a bottle of sweet Coke. Thankfully Sarena managed to get one in the morning and It did make me feel a lot better. By 7 we where up and about and against Sarena's thoughts I decided that I would try and continue the Trail.
The train ride ended up being a bit of a pleasant surprise. We where told it would take 3 hours but after only an hour and a half we had arrived in Aguas Calientes. It was a bit more of a mission to find a decent Hostal though. but in the end we found one at the top of the Hill that had really comfy beds. We both fell asleep straight away. |
Our guide, Litto thought it best for Toby to go back to Ollaytamtambo and get to the hospital, then try and rejoin the group later by train. I thought this was a really good idea and told Toby he just wouldn't be able to do the huge hike we had in store for us that day. He insisted he could do it, and tried to join in with breakfast but couldn't eat a thing. The couple who had been in the tent next door to us had also been sick all night but looked slightly perkier than Toby did, don't know if it was the food or just the altitude which can also make you ill? Toby did agree to getting a porter to carry the bag for him which was
a good thing but i just knew he wasn't fit for walking but he still tried.
10mins into our days trek he collapsed feeling exhausted and admitted
to not being able to carry on. So i ran back to the campsite and took
the bag away from the When back in town we took Toby straight to the hospital and left him
sitting on the bench with the bags as we had 20mins before the doctor
was turning up. Me and the guide walked down to the train station which
was blinkin miles away only to find it was shut so had to walk all the
way back to hospital. He got taken in and looked at and was told he had
an intestinal infection, to be honest he could have had the bubonic plague
and they would have said the same thing - we are talking the hospital
from the dark ages. They gave him some pills and said not to eat veggies
and took the money. We then all went Went back and had some lunch, Toby had fruit, then waited all afternoon
watching the sun go down over the Inca ruins for our train to come. Our
guide bid us farewell and we went to catch the train at 7pm, Toby was
now feeling a little better. Whilst sat at the station i got talking to
an American guy who was telling me how he won't eat anything in South
America unless it was a McDonalds and couldn't We thought the journey was going to take 3hrs so were pleasantly surprised when we arrived in Aguas Calientes an hour and a half later. We walked around for a little while trying to find a hostel but the ones we looked at were pretty rough, and Toby needed a decent bed for the night. We finally found one which was a little more expensive but clean and just crashed out for the night. |
| Monday 27th October 2003 | Hostal Tumi, Aguas Calientes |
| Still
feeling pretty rough so didn't really get up to much for most of the day.
Had a bit of an issue with Money as we had run out and their are now ATMs
or Banks in Aguas Calientes. A lot of the restaurants take visa though
so we thought we might try and get some cash back. So we went to a place
for some breakfast. They said they accepted Visa so I even tried a bit
of Muslie. When it came to paying though they then said that they didn't
accept any credit cards. So we where a bit stuffed. The only solution
was to borrow 20 Soles from the really nice tourist Information girl.
That gave Sarena enough cash to take the bus up to Machu-Picchu and to
the posh hotel up there that would issue US Dollars against our visa card.
I sat at the bus stop and Now we had some cash we could pay for our breakfast (and retrieve my watch which was left as security). By midday it started to pour down with rain and I spent most of the day in between small walks around the down and have a lie down. We even contemplated the hot pools but they looked pretty mank. We ordered a large pizza for dinner but I could only manage a couple of slices before my stomach turned over. At least we got to save some for breakfast tomorrow. |
Toby felt better but still a little green around
the gills, so planned to take it easy for the day. We had been told there
was a cash point in town which turned out to be a blatant lie - great
not a bean in the purse. Ended up borrowing 20soles from a lovely girl
in the info office who told us we had to As soon as i got my money and had overheard enough dire rich people conversation to make me vomit, i headed out to buy another bus ticket back down again. There seemed to be a rally protest being held by the locals so went to investigate, the written signs explained how the government promised the local people years ago, that a percent of the money made from Machu Picchu would go back into the community for schooling, housing, hospital etc, but they hadn't seen a bean, now why doesn't that surprise me. The government must make a fortune just on the bus trips alone - they cost 15soles per person one way, and there are hundreds of people going up and down everyday. I met Toby down in the town and we went to pay off our debts then headed back to the hostel for a lie down. We did think of going to the hot pools but the photos didn't look so inviting and the weather was cold and rainy so didn't bother. Did go out for some pizza for dinner but Toby didn't eat much so had some left over for b'fast. |
| Tuesday 28th October 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
| Up
at 5 and headed down to the bus stop to Machu-Picchu at 6. Good job too.
We where told the first bus leaves at 6:30 but they had started running
I am now finally getting my appetite back. So we spent most of the afternoon eating Pizza. We then collected our train tickets back to Cusco from Littio and met up with Leon and Clare before getting on the train at 4. The train ride back was pretty nasty. It took 4 hours and the carriage rocked from side to side for the whole trip. A few people turned pretty green. Probably not the best option of travel when you can catch the train back to Ollamtaytambo (1:30 hours) and then the bus to Cusco (1 hour) for about a third of the price (and much more comfortable) - never mind. Leon was even pretty ill by the time we arrived in Cusco. By 9 we where back in the Hostel and feeling pretty exhausted. |
Woke up at 5am and were at the bus stop headed up to Machu Picchu for 6am, we had been told the busses don't start running up until 6.30am but we had an incline they would be starting early, and funny enough they did. Up the top by 6.30 and walked through the ticket office into the ruins
and found some our group straight away. Everyone seemed really pleased
to see Toby and made a big ole fuss, nobody could even remember my name......
We had got there in good time and was relatively quite apart from the
groups of hikers who had walked the trail and had come via the sun gate
Toby seemed to be feeling a lot better so we found a Mexican restaurant and spent 3hrs chilling out and eating pizza ( it took along time to get served) then met the 2 kiwi couple - Clare and Leon at the rendezvous point.
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| Wednesday 29th October 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
| After
breakfast I did our diary and then went out for some more breakfast. We
had arranged to meet up with Leon and Clare at a cool cafe they had After our second breakfast We went and checked our emails. Surprisingly I had a few, don't get that many nowadays :( . Even had a few from people that had found our web site and wanted a bit of traveling advice. Looks like I'll have to open up a travel agents when I get home. Spent a good hour replying to emails Then went out in search of a bus ticket to take us South tomorrow night. Ended up finally submitting to the ever persistent shoe shine boys. He had special suede cleaner so I let him at my boots. The poor bloke they have not been cleaned in 2 years and are very smelly. He did a thorough job though (took him an hour) but they didn't look right clean. Looks like I'll have to make them dirty again pretty quickly. |
Had a really good nights sleep back at the hostel
we had previously stayed at. I got up early to find some shampoo and some
hair product just so i could wear my hair down for a change. Went back
and spent an ion in the shower washing my dirty hair and shaving my gorilla
body - felt a different person after the long overdue MOT and went for
some coffee downstairs before heading off to meet Leon and Clare. The
Cafe was lovely and we had heard great things from the Kiwi couple saying
how good the food was. A few minutes after 10.30 they turned up looking
refreshed and clean like us, we all ordered some food which was difficult
as it all looked so damn good. The owner is an Ozzy women who believes
in very large portions, so much so, We made arrangements to meet up with them at 6.30pm along with 2 Swedish girls then we went to an internet place to catch up with everyone. I went back to my room and wrote my diary whilst Toby sorted out some tickets to our next destination |
| Thursday 30th October 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
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Didn't have much of an appetite for breakfast and as soon as I ate some yogurt my stomach started feeling very dodgy again. So much so that I went back to my room for a lay down. The plan for the day was meant to be to find some christmas presents to send back home and visit a few museums. I didn't feel up to it but Sarena still went out on the search for Christmas presents. Pains in my stomach increased during the day and by 4pm we decided that we needed to cancel our bus tickets for this evening to Arequipa. Bugger. I was starting to vomit again too so Sarena convinced me that I should get to the Hospital.
Spent the night flicking through all the cable channels and managed to get to sleep by midnight. |
After b'fast Toby started feeling a little squiffy again and didn't seem to want to do much. We had planned to go Xmas shopping but i went on my own which was probably for the best anyway. I ended up walking around all day and was pretty knackered by the time i got back to the hostel. Toby was looking pretty poorly again and didn't seem to have any energy so i decided to go change the bus tickets for the next day, as we were supposed to be catching the night bus to Arequipa at 7.30pm.. Whilst i was down stairs i found a leaflet about an English speaking clinic not too far away so took it back upstairs to show Toby and thought it best we get him looked at. Off we went in the taxi 10mins down the road and got him sat in the waiting
room looking pretty bad, had to wait about 20mins to see a doctor. He
seemed to be on the ball and did a few tests and asked a few questions
finally deciding on Toby staying the night in the hospital part of the
clinic. It all seemed very up to date and a lot better than i hoped for
so was pleased Toby was finally going to have some proper tests. They
took us into a private room with own bathroom then attached Toby to a
drip to try and |
| Friday 31st October 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
| Stomach
pains had gone by the morning and I was feeling a lot better. The Doctor
gave me a quick check-up and said I he would come back at 4 and Went out and checked my emails for an hour and then crashed back into bed. |
Got up early and went straight to the hospital
to see Toby who was looking 100% better. Told me of the doctors diagnosis,
seems he had Salmonella and Giardiasis which is a parasite that lives
in the intestine, that sounds about right... I dropped off some shower
gel and toothbrush along with some clothes and book. Sat with him for
an hour then had to get back to sort out the rest of the Xmas pressies
so we could get them posted home. When i got back to town i went to the
post office only to find they don't sell boxes so had to hunt some down
somewhere else. I then spent hours walking around trying desperately to
think what to get everyone, as the gift buying is pretty limited over
here. Phoned Toby at 5pm to see if he was coming back which |
| Saturday 1st November 2003 | Qori Inti Hostel, Cusco |
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Feeling a lot better in the morning even though the altitude effected my breathing through the night. We packed up all the Christmas presents that Sarena had so lovingly bought and wrapped over the last few days. We took them down to the post office only to have to unpack them again to be checked. It was a great relief to get them sent off though. Had to do it economy though so hopefully they will get home before Christmas. After that bit of stress was over with I needed a lie down. we then went
back |
Toby woke early and was feeling fine so we both went down for B'fast, Toby only eating dry rolls as the doctor has told him not to eat - dairy foods, red meat, vegetables, fruit. Doesn't leave a lot does it! not easy when you have to eat out. I went off to get a couple more things for the box whilst Toby went and made a couple of phone calls and brown paper. Wrapped and taped the boxes then took the down to the post office where they asked to look inside - bugger. After a long drawn out process we finally left them there, thank god that's all over and done with. Went back to the hostel and just laid around for a bit then went up to Jacks Cafe for a wonderful late lunch, early dinner. Toby wanted to go to the museum but i wanted to call my mate shminky who seemed a little low - god i miss her soooooo much.
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| Sunday 2nd November 2003 | Hotel Espana, Lima |
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Up early and headed to the airport. Flying with Lan Peru this time which was a bonus (air miles and much better planes) The flight was only an hour and we where soon back outside Lima airport with or backpacks. We jumped on the shuttle bus which would take us direct to the Hostel of our choice. We ended up having to wait an hour before the shuttle left and then it took us another 2 hours of bouncing around on the bus as the driver went everywhere else first. Its still a safer option than the Taxis though which was proved when we passed a guy standing on a street corner selling Taxi stickers to passing cars. There is a bit of a problem in Lima where so called Taxis pick up tourists and then take them down a side street and mug them. This sales man wasn't helping the situation.
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Had to be at the airport for 7am, where we checked in and waited for our plane. Luckily it was a bit bigger that the others we had caught just lately so a lot less noisy and much better landing. We arrived in Lima at 11am and bought a couple of bus tickets for the shuttle bus................ never again, We had to sit on the shuttle bus for an hour, just us 2 whilst we waited for another flight to come in and some more people. It then took us around the whole of the city dropping off the other few passengers. 3hrs later we finally got dropped off at our hostel, which when looking at the map was only 10mins away from the airport.
It was like a jungle! plants and vines everywhere with tortoises wandering
around and a little ginger kitten, in the middle though was a tower thing
made up of cages where the birds lived. On the bottom were loads of small
pigeons in dirty smelly cages which hadn't been changed in years, they
were Well that upset me for the day.................. We went and had a late lunch - early dinner around the cornet and i found they did a really nice salad, again something i haven't had in a while. Spent the evening up on the roof top drinking some beer and watching Independence day on video they had running in the restaurant. Seemed to have adopted the ginger cat as he won't leave me alone. |
| Monday 3rd November 2003 | Hotel Espana, Lima |
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That evening we went to a recommended Restaurant. It was ran by an order of French Carmelite Nuns and was completely empty but full of hundreds of badly dressed tables. They did sell CHilean wine (which you can't go wrong with) so we stayed. They even had a meal that met my restricted diet, no vegetables, no fruit, no dairy and no red meat doesn't leave a lot. Chicken and RIce will do fine thank you. It was actually really tasty. Only got a bit awkward as the Nun was intrigued that we weren't married. Stubborn old Sarena kept saying that she didn't want to get married which really confused the Nun and neither of them would drop the subject. I kept kicking Sarena and just telling her to say she would get married. But she wouldn't budge. Thankfully the Nun finally gave up as our subject related vocabulary of Spanish and French got thinner and thinner. Ended up back up at the bar at the Hotel and had a good few hours of general travel chit chat. |
Went back to the hostel and sat up in the restaurant for a couple of hours chatting to some other travelers which made a nice change. |
| Tuesday 4th November 2003 | On a Bus to Tumbes |
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At 2 we caught a taxi to he Bus terminal and had an half an hour wait until we could board the bus. It was one of the smartest buses we have been on. 2 toilets, a kitchen and a lounge area at the front. We had the seats right behind the lounge area too which meant loads of leg room. Smart. We ended up leaving 30 minutes late as we waited for some late passengers who ended up being a load of 'beautiful brazilians from rio' who where actually sitting in the terminal all the time not realising that they should of been on the bus. Beauty and no brains. There was also a weirdo on the bus who spent the whole journey out of Lima sitting at the window sticking his middle finger up at everyone he passed by and nodding his like his neck had been broken. They even played some half decent movies (in English). Austin Powers and Blair Witch 2. Every time there was a good bit in the films Weirdo jumped around an made loads of weird hand signs to nobody in particular. I'll have whatever he's on please! |
Check out wasn't until 12am which was good for
us, so after we handed back the key we just took our bags upstairs to
the roof restaurant and read for a couple of hours, watching the kittens
playing and tortoise strumping around Watched a couple of films including the Blair Witch 2 - absolutey crap, then after some food we both fell asleep |
| Wednesday 5th November 2003 | On a Bus to Quito, Ecuador |
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We made the desicion to run for the border. There is nothing much in Tumbes after all and we where only stopping here for a break between coaches. So they turned us around and took us the 30km to the border. On the way they said it would cost US$10 dollars each to get us across. A bit expensive, we are now getting totally sucked into this scam. Near the border the taxi swerved off the road and I though a complete mugging might be on the cards. He asked for the money to get us around the checkpoint which I assumed was the US$20. I gave him a fair bit less in equivalent Soles, which he said was OK and ran off to pay someone. A barrier of rope was then let down and we continues to the Peru side of the Border control. We where led into get our exit stamps. They told us we could leave our bags in the Taxi - NOT A BLOODY CHANCE. They waited the 30 minutes for us to get our stamps and then took us into Ecuador... (the scam continues) |
Arrived in Tumbes for about 10ish am feeling pretty tired. We got of the coach and were soon jumped on by a crowd of taxi drivers all wanting to take us somewhere........ we jumped in one and asked him to take us to the hostel. On the way he told us that the border to Ecuador was closing at midday for 15day, for some kind of strike........... oh shit! we didn't stop at the hostel but asked the taxi driver how much it would cost to take us to the border, all very garbled and confusing but didn't have much choice as time was of the essence. The driver and his mate took us around some checkpoint, driving off the main road and taking a back road all the time explaining this was the cheaper option........ we had to give him 50soles for doing this thinking that was going to be the cost of the whole trip - we were mistaken. They dropped us off at visa control for us to get our passports stamped then took us back to the taxi where another little bloke was now waiting. All this time we had been following the bus we had previously got off and were one step behind, seeing the group of people from the bus, should have caught the bus straight through really. |
| ECUADOR NOV 2003 > |
| ENGLAND - RUSSIA - MONGOLIA - CHINA - NEPAL/TIBET - INDIA - SINGAPORE - AUSTRALIA - NEW ZEALAND - FIJI - FRENCH POLYNESIA - EASTER ISLAND - CHILE - ARGENTINA - URUGUAY - BRAZIL - PERU - ECUADOR - U.S.A - SPAIN - ENGLAND |
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